Advice for New Dog Owners
The best time to instill good behavior in a new dog is when they first arrive. There
is no history for the dog in its new environment. Here is
some practical advice to help you enjoy your new dog for years to come.
Attend Pet Behavior Workshops
SICSA offers Pet Behavior Workshops to assist
you with annoying or problem behaviors whether you have had your dog one day or many years.
- One hour long
- Offered on Sundays
- Topic oriented so the class covers only the behaviors you are interested in.
- View list of scheduled
workshops
Hand Feed Your Dog
Hand feed your new adult dog for the first two to three weeks. Puppies should
be hand fed at least one meal a day until they are 18-20 weeks of age.
Hand feeding functions in a couple different ways.
- First, hand feeding enhances the relationship building between you and
your new dog.
Many relationships, not just dog/people relationships are built over food. Most
first dates involve dinner and looking across the table and making eye
contact.
- Secondly, for puppies, bite inhibition is developed in dogs by the time they are 18-20 weeks of age.
Housetrain To Prevent Bad Habits
Housetraining is more than just doing bathroom
duties outside, it is also about preventing undesirable behaviors like:
- chewing
table legs
- getting into the trash
- de-stuffing couch cushions
- and other
common complaints.
Train Them for the Future
Remember that past behavior is predictive of future behavior. If
the dog chews a pillow today why wouldn’t he do it tomorrow? Dogs
do what works….period. If
it is sufficiently reinforcing for them, they will continue the behavior.
When
you first bring the dog home, have an idea of what behaviors are okay and
what is not. Do
you want the dog to stay off the furniture when he is 60 lbs? Then
he can’t be on the furniture when he is 10 lbs.
Following these simple concepts
will help make your new dog’s transition to life with you a pleasant
event.
- Limit freedom of the new dog by crating or confining
in a safe place until you have had the dog for a minimum of two weeks
for an adult dog and approximately 6 months for a puppy.
- Supervise the dog when he is out and about in the house. Supervision
means watching the dog, not having him out when you watch T.V. or work
on the computer.
- Transition to Freedom. If an adult dog has done
well in the first two weeks and has not gone to the bathroom in their
confined area or cage, or chewed inappropriately, begin transitioning
the dog out of the confined area or cage by providing an activity
for him to do while you step out of the house for a period of 5 minutes. Build
duration gradually.
Acceptable
activities are:
- Stuffing a Kong
- Providing an
appropriately sized chew toy or food cube.
Another source for unique toys and items is: Helping Udders. You can also support
SICSA when you purchase from them. Just indicate 'SICSA' as the rescue you wish to support on your order.
Do not just leave the dog
with nothing to do. Trust that if you do, he will find something to
do and it might not be what you want him to do! Past behavior
is predictive of future behavior!
Freedom, Oh Sweet Freedom
By far the biggest mistake new dog owners make is allowing the new pet too
much freedom in the home before the dog is housetrained.
Don't Overcompensate
It is not uncommon for people to overcompensate when they adopt a shelter
or rescue dog because they feel bad for the dog’s unfortunate past. Be
happy and content that the dog won’t ever have to experience neglect
or abuse again because YOU are going to ensure that they learn manners and
good behavior!
Exercise
Provide your new family addition with enough appropriate physical exercise.
Fenced yards don’t exercise dogs — people do
Interactive games such as fetch and Frisbee are great for backyard activities.
Leash walks also serve to provide your dog with bonding time with you and
to relieve pent up energy that might cause behavior problems down the road.
Confining Your Dog
During confinement, provide appropriate chew toys for your
new companion.
Dogs
need to chew. They chew to:
- relieve stress
- boredom
- anxiety
- to
soothe tender gums during the transition from puppy to adolescent
- get mental stimulation – sort of like doggy studying
Creating
a Kong (link to Kong info) habit in your dog will work to your advantage
by teaching your dog how to lie down, relax and be quiet.
Behavioral Development of Puppies
A puppy's experience between birth and 20 weeks of age, along with its genetic
makeup, have an enormous influence on the behavior of an adult dog.
Time With Their Mothers Is Important
When
adopting or buying a puppy, choose only puppies that have had access to their
mother and littermates for a minimum of 7 weeks.
Puppies that are removed
from their mothers prior to 7 weeks of age run a higher risk of behavior
problems later in life. Most specifically is the development of bite
inhibition.
Bite Inhibition
Bite
inhibition does not mean the dog doesn’t bite – that is bite prohibition. Bite
inhibition is learning to inhibit the force of their mouth or in other
words, knowing how hard they are biting.
Nature gives puppies very weak jaws and needle sharp teeth. Nature also
gives adult dogs strong jaws and teeth that can rip flesh.
Puppies begin
to get teeth (around the age of 4 weeks), and play with their littermates
and mother. If they bite too hard, the puppy that was hurt lets out
a high pitched yelp that lets the offending puppy know they were too rough. Consequently,
the puppy then learns to use less mouth pressure during play. If a puppy
bites too hard when nursing the mother will give an inhibited muzzle punch
to indicate that the puppy was out of line.
Genetics Can't Be Ignored
Another aspect of the behavioral development
of puppies is of course, genetics. As
the old saying goes “The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree”.
Aggressive dogs can produce aggressive puppies. It is highly abnormal
for puppies, even from aggressive dogs, to display aggression until adulthood,
so just the fact that the puppies are friendly but the parents are not is
no indication that you have a puppy that won’t develop aggression later
in life.
Socialization
Socialization is another factor that will influence the behavioral
development of puppies. Socialization is defined as exposure to
the unfamiliar. This
means unfamiliar dogs, unfamiliar people, unfamiliar objects etc. While this is an important element of development, keep in mind that socialization is not so much about the amount of exposure as it is the success of the exposure. Overwhelming your pup can do more damage than no socialization at all.
Starting
your puppy off in group puppy class as soon as the puppy has sufficient vaccinations
is a great idea. However, the socialization process should continue
well into the dogs second year.
Aggression in Dogs
Most aggression develops between the ages of 12 and 18 months but an earlier
or later onset is also possible.
Punishment is Not the Answer
If you have an aggressive dog, it is extremely
important to understand that punishment will NOT resolve aggression in most
cases. In
fact, it will most likely make the aggression worse.
Aggression is a very broad term and in dogs can be caused by numerous factors. There
is usually not one clear cause.
Signs of Aggression
An aggressive dog can be one that:
- will
not allow you to take rawhides or other high value objects from them
- growls or snaps if you try and move him off a bed or
furniture
- growls when approached while eating
or sleeping
- barks and lunges at other dogs or people
when walking on a leash
- attacks other animals or
people if he/she is frustrated
- barks, growls or
snaps at other animals or people who walk by their cage
- growls or snaps at unfamiliar people entering his/her territory
- is afraid and bites
Two things are certain:
- Aggression will not go away on its
own. They
will not grow out of it or get over it
- The longer a dog practices aggressive behavior,
the harder it will be to change.
Other factors that influence the success rate of changing aggressive behavior
are:
- the genetic makeup of the dog
- the experiences between birth and 20
weeks of life
- how the dog is handled
- how many people interact daily
with the dog
Professional Help Is Available
There are many ranges of aggression which make
it necessary for you to get professional help.
To get help for your aggressive dog, call Pawsitive
Pet Solutions, LLC
at (937) 572-3436.
Dog Bites
Read everything you wanted to know about dog
bites and dog bite prevention from The Center for Disease
Control and Prevention (CDD).
Dogs and Children
All children should have dogs, right? All dogs are great with children,
right? No and No.
The "Lassie Syndrome"
The “Lassie Syndrome” is the tendency
for us to expect our dog to behave like the beloved dog on television.
Lassie
was able to save Timmy on countless occasions because Lassie was a combination
of several trained dog actors shown in less than 10 second clips edited
together for the viewing pleasure of an audience.
The tendency for us to expect the family dog to tolerate anything
a child can dish out is very dangerous and countless times has resulted
in tragedy.
It
is vitally important for dogs AND children to learn how to interact appropriately. Of
course, there are dogs out there that do have a high tolerance for children
and it is the children in these families that are more likely to be bitten
when they visit the home of friends with dogs that have tolerance levels
lower than their own pets.
It is extremely important to set boundaries with any dog and child relationship. Allowing
a child to crawl all over a dog or pull tails or ears is asking for trouble. Some
dogs will tolerate this however, the average dog – which can be a
very nice family dog – has limits.
The children that usually
get bitten are ones that have not learned boundaries because they have
very tolerant dogs. This is very dangerous because as the child develops,
he develops a comfort level for ALL dogs based on their dog, then when
they visit the home of a friend or family member who has a dog that has
limits, they end up getting bitten.
Typically, most dogs that have
issues with children have the most problem when the child begins to become
mobile—crawling
up through the toddler stage around 18 months to 2 years. This stage
of the child’s development is the stage that requires the most management
from the adults in the household.
Good management skills along with
reinforcement for the dog and the child for appropriate behavior will help
through the transition from infancy through the toddler stages. Simply
separating the dog from the child and never allowing them to interact will
not teach them to be comfortable with children.
Teaching children to respect an animal’s space and body parts is
no different than teaching them to be kind to their classmates in school. Would
you allow your child to go up and pull the ear of a classmate or play too
rough with another child? Of course not.
When a New Baby Comes Along
When the family dog has been the ‘only child’ for
a few years and then a baby is on the way, there is a lot of preparation
you can to do assist in the transition for your dog.
- First, if your
dog knows basic foundation cues such as sit, stay and come, that will be
a great help. If
your pet does not know these cues, begin working on them so that they are
reliable before the baby comes.
- Introduce the visual objects that will come before the baby such as car
seats, strollers, vibrating baby seats etc. Reward your dog with a
tasty treat and lots of praise for investigating the baby equipment and
not showing any fear.
- If your pet is generally fearful, it is best
to get professional guidance beforehand so that you can begin building
your dog’s confidence in the unfamiliar things that he will be facing
in the future.
- Introduce the audio sounds that are typical with babies. You can
find numerous web sites with sound files of babies cooing, babies
crying etc and play these in the presence of your dog. Again, reward
with praise and a tasty treat for not being fearful or out of control
when he hears these sounds. Continue playing these for short periods
of time over several weeks so that when your dog no longer even orients
to the sound. This
is the desired reaction.
Barking
- Dogs bark for many reasons. Most people want the dog to bark when
someone is at the door but want the dog to stop when someone enters the
home. This is frequently the only time people want their dogs to bark.
- Barking out the window or in the yard at people and other animals can
become a serious problem. As with all nuisance behaviors, the longer
the dog has been practicing it, the harder it is to change.
Know Why Your Dog Is Barking
In order to address barking, it is important to understand the motivation
for the barking.
- Anxiety. If the barking is anxiety related, NEVER
use an automatic bark collar on the dog. Doing so will eliminate the
barking however, the dog will find another way to manifest the anxiety and
typically this results in aggression.
- Lack of Exercise or Boredom. Many times, barking
is related to a lack of exercise, mental stimulation or boredom. Ensuring
that your dog’s exercise
and mental needs are met is the first step in changing the behavior.
How to Address problem barking
If you have a problem barker, increase your dog’s daily exercise
and provide him with something appropriate to chew on such as a rawhide
that is appropriate for the size of your dog or a Kong stuffed with a combination
of your dog’s dry food and a canned version of his food.
If
your dog is not Kong ‘savvy’, he can be taught by making them
easy to empty and then gradually, as he gets better at it, freezing the
Kong progressively longer and longer. An adequately stuffed Kong can
keep a dog busy for an hour or longer. If he can empty it within
15 minutes, it is not difficult enough.
Breed Information
Which Breed is Right For Your Family?
What dog is right for your family depends on your family! There
is as much variation of personality in dogs within a breed as there are
between the breeds.
Not all Golden Retrievers are good family dogs – much
depends on the particular dogs that are bred and the early socialization
and training that is done.
Choosing an appropriate dog is not always an easy task. Generally
speaking:
- Choosing an adult dog (over 2 years of age) gives you the opportunity
to know how the particular animal will fit into your home and lifestyle.
- Choosing an adolescent dog (6 months to 2 years of age) gives you some
glimpse into the dog’s behavior as an adult but typically this is
when dogs are not at their best behaviorally.
Ever had a teenager? Understanding
and recognizing that this is the most challenging time in a dog’s
life, getting them integrated into your home and in a good obedience class
will make all the difference in the world.
- Choosing a puppy can be one of the hardest things to
do. Most puppies
are naturally friendly and affectionate This is no guarantee that
the puppy will be this way as an adult. What determines that is the
genetic make-up of the dog and what YOU do to train and socialize
your dog through the second year of life.
Consult a SICSA Adoption Counselor
Adoption counselors at SICSA, along with staff and the behavior department,
evaluate each puppy and dog to match them to the best possible environment.
Just
because a dog is a puppy doesn’t mean it can go to any home. There
are differences in personalities. The rambunctious puppy that is the
bossy pup in the litter or the shy, backward puppy would not be the best
choice for a family with children or an empty nester. Those types
of homes should go for the middle of the road puppy who is laid back and
doesn’t want to be Chairman of the Board.
- Serious, dedicated breeders who breed for the betterment of the breed
will restrict which puppies you can choose from. If they don’t,
they either don’t care or aren’t knowledgeable enough to know
the difference.
Chewing
Dogs need to chew. Period.
Expecting your dog to not chew
because you don’t want him to chew on your furniture and belongings
is unrealistic. You wouldn’t expect your dog to not relieve
itself because you didn’t want it to go in the house.
Chewing provides mental stimulation and is like ‘Doggy Studying’. Remember
when you were in school and you studied for five hours? You were tired
and drained but had done nothing physical. Kongs are especially important
during inclement weather when you have interruptions in your dog’s daily
exercise schedule.
Dogs can
learn what they are allowed to chew on but they must be taught. Provide
an ample supply of toys that are suitable for your dog’s
chewing style. This is very important to his mental health as well
as your furniture and woodwork.
How to Choose the Right "Kong" for Your Pet
Durable toys such as the Kong toy are made of different grades of materials
based on the ‘chew factor’ your particular dog has. Choosing
the right type and size of a Kong is important.
Choose the right type based on your dog's age and chewing ability:
- Blue and White. ‘Puppy’ Kongs are a blue and white swirled
color, are more pliable and are intended for tiny puppy teeth.
- Red. As your puppy grows, especially if it is a medium to large
sized dog, may require that you ‘upgrade’ to a different type
of Kong. Red
Kongs are for light to moderate chewers.
- Black. Black Kongs are for more voracious chewers and are the least
pliable Kong available.
Choose the right size Kong for your pet:
- As with most toys, a general rule of thumb is that you can always go up
a size or two but not down. Don’t give an Irish Wolfhound a
small or medium Kong! Or a Chihuahua a Large or Extra Large Kong!
- Choosing the right size is also important because the whole goal of providing
them is to keep your dog busy chewing on something appropriate. If
the Kong is too small, you will not be accomplishing your goal.
Crate or Confinement Training
Acclimating your dog to being confined is very important for several reasons.
- First,
you want to make sure that the dog is reliable and completely housetrained
and not destructive.
- Secondly, if your dog is used to not being confined
and you need to confine them when you have work done on your home, your
pet is injured or ill and needs rest or if you don’t want them mingling
around during a dinner party, you will have a BIG problem when these things
happen.
If your dog was housed at SICSA, it is used to being confined in a kennel
or crate. Re-introducing this in the home will be beneficial to you
while you get to know your dog and the bonding process is being established.
Digging
Digging is a very fun and reinforcing activity for your dog. Digging
however, is not the very fun and rewarding activity most people want their
dogs to do.
Dogs dig for many reasons but predominantly for to relieve boredom. Especially
if the dog is outside most of the time, they dig because it is an interesting
activity.
Once a dog begins to dig, it is very hard to change the behavior because
it requires supervision. Most people, especially those with fenced
yards, will allow the dog an enormous amount of unsupervised time. This
results in the dog developing the behavior and refining it sometimes even
before the humans know they are doing it.
- An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! Setting rules outside
just like you do in the house and keeping your dog busy with appropriate
activities help him to learn what you want him to do outside.
Socialization
Lack of appropriate socialization can have drastic effects on dogs throughout
their lives. So what is socialization?
Socialization is defined as exposure to the unfamiliar — unfamiliar
people, unfamiliar places, unfamiliar dogs, unfamiliar surfaces etc.
Ideally,
this process should be started as soon as puppies are born. It is
important to understand that from birth to 7 weeks, the socialization process
should be age appropriate – meaning that the type of exposure and
amount of exposure during this time frame is very important. Not enough
or too much can have an impact on how the puppy develops and into adulthood.
Once a puppy comes home around 7-8 weeks of age, it is not fully immunized
so again, the type of exposure and where the exposure occurs is important.
For
instance, it is not a good idea to take a puppy of this age to a dog park
or any park for that matter. There is no way to ensure that your puppy
won’t pick up a disease in that environment because there is no way
to control whether the area has been frequented by unvaccinated dogs. This
poses a health risk to your puppy.
Ways to Socialize Your Dog
- People in the Home. You can socialize your
dog with people coming in your home and interacting with your puppy when
he is calm and not overly excited. Over excited, out of control behavior
is a common problem in adolescent dogs that stems from getting lots of attention
and over stimulation early in life.
- Other Pets. If you have another dog or a cat, your
puppy can socialize with those pets to begin the learning process of appropriate
interactions with other pets however, as the puppy ages, it is important
to expose the puppy to unfamiliar dogs especially throughout the next 12
to 16 weeks of the puppy’s
life.
- Obedience Class.
Concerns over the risk of disease from enrolling
the puppy in a good, carefully selected obedience class is
addressed in this letter from
renowned veterinarian and animal behaviorist Dr. R.K. Anderson.
Heat Stroke / Hyperthermia, Heat
Exhaustion
HeatStroke
Heatstroke is a common occurrence during the warmer months of the year.
Other factors such as obesity, advanced age, infancy and poor ventilation
can cause HYPERTHERMIA (heatstroke).
Owners of dogs with short noses (boxers, bulldogs, Pekinese etc.) should
be especially cautious.
Heatstroke / Hyperthermia
Heatstroke is associated with marked elevation in body temperature. Afflicted
dogs are unable to decrease their body temperature to normal. Usually,
cell damage begins to occur at body temperatures over 106 degrees.
If Left Untreated...
If untreated, SEVERE HYPERTHERMIA (heatstroke) results in kidney, liver
and/or heart failure.
Dogs who are treated after a significant delay may survive, but could
be left with permanent effects such as blood clotting disorders, metabolic
abnormalities, muscle damage, and/or brain dysfunction.
Symptoms
To follow are symptoms of heatstroke in dogs. Some or all may be
present:
- Panting
- Weakness or collapse
- Elevated temperature (from 105 to 110 degrees - normal temperature is
99 - 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit)
- Vomiting, diarrhea and/or lack of urine production
- Seizures
- Fast, pounding pulse
- Blank or staring expression
- Red, injected mucous membranes (gums)
Heat Exhaustion
Heat Exhaustion occurs with exercise, particularly on hot, humid days,
and may not be associated with an elevation in body temperature.
Symptoms
To follow are symptoms of heat exhaustion in dogs. Some or all may
be present:
- Collapse or fainting
- Mentally dazed
- Vomiting
- Muscle cramps (seizure-like tremors)
- Abnormally rapid heartbeat and rapid breathing
- Muscle weakness.
First Aid Materials for Heat Stroke and Exhaustion:
- 2 liter soda bottle
- towel
- thermometer
- cool water source
First Aid
- Take the dog’s temperature. If the temperature is 106 degrees
(F) or greater, and the dog is experiencing shortness of breath and is
extremely hot to the touch, immerse the dog in cool to cold water - NOT
ICE WATER - a bathtub is ideal.
- Contact your veterinarian or emergency animal
care facility immediately
for advice on how to avoid shock and other complications. Advise
them as to what you have already done, and seek their advice for
further instructions.
If unable to reach an animal care professional
or facility, use the following as guidelines (but not as a replacement
for veterinary advice)
- Monitor temperature, taking its temperature every two
minutes, to observe changes. Remove the dog from the cool bath once
his/her temperature reaches 104 degrees.
DO NOT WAIT
UNTIL THE DOG’S
TEMPERATURE IS NORMAL, BECAUSE THE TEMPERATURE MAY CONTINUE TO DROP
EVEN AFTER REMOVAL FROM THE COOL BATH
- Speak to your
pet in a normal, soothing tone. If you are hysterical or overexcited,
this may frighten your pet.
- If temperature falls below 98 degrees, keep your pet warm by covering
with a towel and placing a 2-liter soda bottle filled with warm
(NOT HOT) water against the dog.
- If your dog stops panting, seems more relaxed and responds to your
voice, give a small amount of cool (not cold) water.
- If you cannot reach your veterinarian, monitor the temperature at
regular intervals, from two hours to 12 hours. If symptoms do
not abate or worsen - SEEK PROFESSIONAL CARE IMMEDIATELY through
one of the emergency animal hospitals near you.
Transportation to Professional Care:
- If at all possible, two people should transport - one should drive and
one should provide care for the pet.
- The vehicle must be well ventilated during the trip. Unless the dog’s
temperature drops below 104 degrees, wrap the dog in a wet, cool
towel.
- Use a pet carrier if possible, especially if only one person is transporting
the dog. A dog that normally responds well to car rides may not react
in the same way under emergency conditions.
- Buckle the carrier in, if possible, or provide pillows to pad against
quick stops.
- STAY CALM and DRIVE CAREFULLY!
What to Expect at the Veterinarians Office
- Your veterinarian will examine your dog to determine if further treatment
is necessary and also if there was any permanent damage.
- It may be necessary for the veterinarian to provide care including replacing
lost fluids, continuing cold-water baths (and/or enemas), treating for symptoms
of shock, administering oxygen and/or admitting for observation and care.
Prevention:
- Adequate shade and ventilation when dogs are outside. Shelter from the
sun. If the dog is in an enclosed area, it must be ventilated. Even
with these precautions, environmental temperatures in the shaded
or enclosed area above 80 degrees Fahrenheit is risky.
- Free access to water (ideally, water should not be kept in direct sunlight).
- Fresh Air. If your home is not air-conditioned, an open window
(or two, for ventilation) will provide fresh air. If you close all of
your windows for security (or for your pet’s safety), make sure
the room is well ventilated and the drapes closed against the sunlight.
If you keep your pet in a crate, make sure the crate has adequate airflow
(wire is better than airline kennels, in this situation). Leave your
dog ice cubes in his/her water dish.
- While we never recommend your dog accompany you on errands in warm months,
if you have to leave your dog in the car on a warm day, park in the
shade and keep windows open (safety could be an issue here, as well
-- will your dog jump out?) for ventilation.
If you park in the shade, always check on your dog frequently, as
the sun can move and so will the shade.
Never Leave a pet unattended in a parked car for more than a couple
of minutes.
If your errand is longer than a
minute or two, the temperature in your car can soar to over 140 degrees
within minutes, SERIOUSLY JEOPARDIZING YOUR PET’S
HEALTH.
Never leave a pet in a car with the windows closed.
Carry
water for your pet if he must be out with you, in case of a breakdown
or traffic jam.
- If your dog is one of the short-nosed breeds (such as a Pug or Boston
Terrier), older, very young or overweight, the above precautions
will not be enough.
The above information is provided as a service and is not intended to
take the place of a veterinarian’s advice. SICSA does not recommend
that a pet be confined
to a car during warm or hot months, no matter what precautions are
taken.
Jumping
- Jumping is one of the most common complaints of pet owners. While
jumping on people is an undesirable trait, it is a very friendly behavior. The
entire reason a dog jumps is because they want the social interaction and
they have not been taught that this is not the way that humans want to be
greeted.
- Preventing jumping from starting is the most effective way to address
the problem. Teaching a 7 – 8 week old puppy to sit when they
approach people is very easy to do and at this age, will imprint
this behavior as part of a dogs normal greeting process.
- Unfortunately, most puppies are heavily reinforced for ‘popping
a wheelie’ from a very early age. People stoop down and the
puppy puts his front paws on them and they get all kinds of heavily reinforcing
interaction. This is the beginning of a jumping problem. It
is no big deal when the puppy weighs 10 lbs but when they are 60 lbs, it
is a BIG problem.
- If a dog has already become a dedicated jumper, all is not lost. You
can reform a jumping addict. It requires more dedication and a change
of the way you interact with your dog but it can be done.
- NEVER interact with your dog when he does not have four feet on the floor.
- If your dog does not jump on you but jumps on guests coming to your home,
stop allowing your dog to greet people until he has learned a different
response.
- Teach your dog to sit for attention and petting.
Fence Jumpers
Check out this innovative product to reform a fence jumper!
Sweet Success!
Following these general guidelines can help to ensure that the addition of
your new dog is fun, rewarding and the beginning of a long, lasting relationship.
Questions
If you have dogs that are not
co-existing well or need additional help, contact:
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